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Dogs with separation anxiety exhibit behavior problems
when they’re left alone. Typically, they’ll have a dramatic anxiety response
within a short time (20-45 minutes) after their owners leave them. The
most common of these behaviors are:
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Digging, chewing and scratching at doors or windows
in an attempt to escape and reunite with their owners.
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Howling, barking and crying in an attempt to get their
owner to return.
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Urination and defecation (even with housetrained dogs)
as a result of distress.
Why Do Dogs Suffer From Separation
Anxiety?
We don’t fully understand exactly why some dogs suffer from separation
anxiety and, under similar circumstances, others don’t. It’s important
to realize, however, that the destruction and house soiling that often
occurs with separation anxiety is not the dog’s attempt to punish or seek
revenge on his owner for leaving him alone, but is actually a panic response.
Separation anxiety sometimes occurs when:
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A dog has never or rarely been left alone.
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Following a long interval, such as a vacation, during
which the owner and* dog are constantly together.
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After a traumatic event (from the dog’s point of view)
such as a period of time spent at a shelter or boarding kennel.
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After a change in the family’s routine or structure
(a child leaving for college, a change in work schedule, a move to
a new home, a new pet or person in the home).
How Do I Know If My Dog Has Separation
Anxiety?
Because there are many reasons for the behaviors associated with separation
anxiety, it’s essential to correctly diagnose the reason for the behavior
before proceeding with treatment.
If most, or all, of the following statements are true about
your dog, he may have a separation anxiety problem:
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The behavior occurs exclusively or primarily
when he’s left alone.
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He follows you from room to room whenever you’re
home.
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He displays effusive, frantic greeting behaviors.
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The behavior always occurs when
he’s left alone, whether for a short or long period of time.
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He reacts with excitement, depression or anxiety
to your preparations to leave the house.
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He dislikes spending time outdoors by himself.
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What To Do If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety
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For a minor separation anxiety problem, the following
techniques may be helpful by themselves. For more severe problems,
these techniques should be used along with the desensitization process
described in the next section.
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Keep arrivals and departures low-key. For example,
when you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first few minutes, then
calmly pet him.
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Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells
like you, an old tee shirt that you’ve slept in recently, for example.
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Establish a "safety cue"--a word or action that you
use every time you leave that tells your dog you’ll
be back. Dogs usually learn to associate certain cues with short absences
by their owners. For example, when you take out the garbage, your
dog knows you come right back and doesn't become anxious. Therefore,
it’s helpful to associate a safety cue with your practice departures
and short-duration absences.
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Some examples of safety cues are: a playing radio;
a playing television; a bone; or a toy (one that doesn’t have dangerous
fillings and can’t be torn into pieces). Use your safety cue during
practice sessions, but don’t present your dog with the safety cue
when you leave for a period of time longer than he can tolerate or
the value of the safety cue will be lost. Leaving a radio on to provide
company for your dog isn’t particularly useful by itself, but a playing
radio may work if you’ve used it consistently as a safety cue in your
practice sessions. If your dog engages in destructive chewing as part
of his separation distress, offering him a chewing item as a safety
cue is a good idea. Very hard rubber toys that can be stuffed with
treats and Nylabone-like products are good choices.
Desensitization Techniques For
More Severe Cases Of Separation Anxiety
The primary treatment for more severe cases of separation anxiety
is a systematic process of getting your dog used to being alone. You must
teach your dog to remain calm during "practice" departures and short absences.
We recommend the following procedure:
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Begin by engaging in your normal departure activities
(getting your keys, putting on your coat), then sit back down. Repeat
this step until your dog shows no distress in response to your activities.
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Next, engage in your normal departure activities and
go to the door and open it, then sit back down.
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Next, step outside the door, leaving the door
open, then return.
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Finally, step outside, close the door, then
immediately return. Slowly get your dog accustomed to being alone
with the door closed between you for several seconds.
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Proceed very gradually from step to step, repeating
each step until your dog shows no signs of distress (the number of
repetitions will vary depending on the severity of the problem). If
at any time in this process your actions produce an anxiety response
in your dog, you’ve proceeded too fast. Return to an earlier step
in the process and practice this step until the dog shows no distress
response, then proceed to the next step.
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When your dog is tolerating your being on the other
side of the door for several seconds, begin short-duration absences.
This step involves giving the dog a verbal cue (for example, "I’ll
be back.'), leaving and then returning within a minute. Your return
must be low-key: either ignore your dog or greet him quietly and calmly.
If he shows no signs of distress, repeat the exercise. If he appears
anxious, wait until he relaxes to repeat the exercise. Gradually increase
the length of time you’re gone.
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Practice as many absences as possible that last less
than ten minutes. You can do many departures within one session if
your dog relaxes sufficiently between departures. You should also
scatter practice departures and short-duration absences throughout
the day.
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Once your dog can handle short absences (30 to 90
minutes), he’ll usually be able to handle longer intervals alone and
you won’t have to work up to all-day absences minute by minute. The
hard part is at the beginning, but the job gets easier as you go along.
Nevertheless, you must go slowly at first. How long it takes to condition
your dog to being alone depends on the severity of his problem.
Teaching The Sit-Stay And Down-Stay
Practice sit-stay or down-stay exercises using positive reinforcement.
Never punish your dog during these training sessions. Gradually increase
the distance you move away from your dog. Your goal is to be able to move
briefly out of your dog's sight while he remains in the "stay" position.
The point is to teach him that he can remain calmly and happily in one
place while you go to another. As you progress, you can do this during
the course of your normal daily activities. For example, if you’re watching
television with your dog by your side and you get up for a snack, tell
him to stay, and leave the room. When you come back, give him a treat
or quietly praise him.
Interim Solutions
Because the above-described treatments can take a while, and because
a dog with separation anxiety can do serious damage to himself and/or
your home in the interim, some of the following suggestions may be helpful
in dealing with the problems in the short term:
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Consult your veterinarian about the possibility of
drug therapy. A good anti-anxiety drug should not sedate your dog,
but simply reduce his anxiety while you’re gone. Such medication is
a temporary measure and should be used in conjunction with
behavior modification techniques.
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Take your dog to a dog day care facility or boarding
kennel.
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Leave your dog with a friend, family member or neighbor.
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Take your dog to work with you, even for half a day,
if possible.
What Won’t Help A Separation Anxiety Problem
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Punishment is not an effective way to treat separation
anxiety. In fact, if you punish your dog after you return home it
may actually increase his separation anxiety.
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Getting another pet. This usually doesn’t help an
anxious dog as his anxiety is the result of his separation from you,
his person, not merely the result of being alone.
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Crating your dog. Your dog will still engage in anxiety
responses in the crate. He may urinate, defecate, howl or even injure
himself in an attempt to escape from the crate.
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Leave the radio on (unless the radio is used as a
"safety cue" - see above).
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Obedience school. While obedience training is always
a good idea, it won’t directly help a separation anxiety problem.
Separation anxiety is not the result of disobedience or lack of training,
it’s a panic response.
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